Textiles, Carpets, and Leather

Textiles, Carpets, and Leather

Woven textiles have always played an important role in Islamic society and in many cases were among the most prestigious and costly luxury goods.

Technically, textiles ranged from fairly simple tabby and tapestry weaves, through ikat, lampas, and samitum fabrics, to highly complex metal-brocaded velvets. In addition, there were embroidered, printed, and other types of fabrics.

Different materials were also used: plant fibers such as linen and cotton, wool from sheep and goats, silk, and finally various kinds of “metal thread.”

Pile carpets of wool, cotton, or silk – commonly called Oriental carpets – are justifiably associated almost exclusively with the Middle East, from which they were exported to the entire world.

Tanned animal skins were used to make parchment and leather of different types.

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ISLAMIC ART: TEXTILES, CARPETS, AND LEATHER

Islamic Art: Textiles, carpets, and leather

Item no. 3 of 37

Tapestry, dyed wool and undyed linen

Egypt; 9th-10th century
56 × 43 cm

Egypt has been known for its textile production since ancient times. This fairly coarse tapestry belongs to a group that was made under the Turkish Tulunid dynasty. In contrast to tiraz textiles, where inscriptions played the main role, these pieces are figurative. They reflect both the local Coptic tradition and finer silk fabrics of the type that was made for the Byzantine and Sasanian courts.

A stylized tree of life is surrounded by confronted sphinxes and addorsed lions framed by a medallion. The pattern is a bit clumsy, but it also displays a power and colorfulness that might bring to mind Turkish kilims.

Inv. no. 1/1989