Textiles, Carpets, and Leather

Textiles, Carpets, and Leather

Woven textiles have always played an important role in Islamic society and in many cases were among the most prestigious and costly luxury goods.

Technically, textiles ranged from fairly simple tabby and tapestry weaves, through ikat, lampas, and samitum fabrics, to highly complex metal-brocaded velvets. In addition, there were embroidered, printed, and other types of fabrics.

Different materials were also used: plant fibers such as linen and cotton, wool from sheep and goats, silk, and finally various kinds of “metal thread.”

Pile carpets of wool, cotton, or silk – commonly called Oriental carpets – are justifiably associated almost exclusively with the Middle East, from which they were exported to the entire world.

Tanned animal skins were used to make parchment and leather of different types.

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ISLAMIC ART: TEXTILES, CARPETS, AND LEATHER

Islamic Art: Textiles, carpets, and leather

Item no. 17 of 37

Turban cover, silk embroidery on linen

Turkey; 2nd half of 16th century
119 × 124 cm

This incredibly fine embroidery was built up symmetrically over two axes. The motif is local Turkish flora, with tulips, carnations, hyacinths, and cypresses – a realm of motifs that also became modern for woven textiles and ceramics in the mid-16th century. Earlier, Chinese flora had dominated.

The quality of the embroidery is so high that it was presumably made in one of the court workshops in Istanbul. Traces of a drawn pattern can still be seen under the embroidery.

The square shape and rich decoration make it likely that this was a cover for a well-to-do Turk’s ceremonial turban – kavuk – which was so complicated that once it had been wound, it was sewn together.

Inv. no. 17/1994