Textiles, Carpets, and Leather

Textiles, Carpets, and Leather

Woven textiles have always played an important role in Islamic society and in many cases were among the most prestigious and costly luxury goods.

Technically, textiles ranged from fairly simple tabby and tapestry weaves, through ikat, lampas, and samitum fabrics, to highly complex metal-brocaded velvets. In addition, there were embroidered, printed, and other types of fabrics.

Different materials were also used: plant fibers such as linen and cotton, wool from sheep and goats, silk, and finally various kinds of “metal thread.”

Pile carpets of wool, cotton, or silk – commonly called Oriental carpets – are justifiably associated almost exclusively with the Middle East, from which they were exported to the entire world.

Tanned animal skins were used to make parchment and leather of different types.

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ISLAMIC ART: TEXTILES, CARPETS, AND LEATHER

Islamic Art: Textiles, carpets, and leather

Item no. 5 of 37

Tiraz, tabby-woven textile, linen with a tapestry-woven silk inscription

Egypt; between 946 and 974
41 × 52 cm

True tiraz textiles are distinctive for their inscriptions, which often give the name of the ruling prince – in this case al-Muti, the Abbasid caliph who ruled between 946 and 974. The word tiraz means embroidery, and the term covers both the type of textile and the workshops where these textiles were woven.

The princes controlled the vast majority of tiraz workshops, something that yielded them an enormous profit. They also decided who was allowed to wear a tiraz, which gave the owner great prestige, not unlike a modern order.

In 696, the Fatimids conquered Egypt, which had some of the finest tiraz workshops. This is one of the last textiles woven there for the Abbasids.

Inv. no. 18/1971