Textiles, Carpets, and Leather

Textiles, Carpets, and Leather

Woven textiles have always played an important role in Islamic society and in many cases were among the most prestigious and costly luxury goods.

Technically, textiles ranged from fairly simple tabby and tapestry weaves, through ikat, lampas, and samitum fabrics, to highly complex metal-brocaded velvets. In addition, there were embroidered, printed, and other types of fabrics.

Different materials were also used: plant fibers such as linen and cotton, wool from sheep and goats, silk, and finally various kinds of “metal thread.”

Pile carpets of wool, cotton, or silk – commonly called Oriental carpets – are justifiably associated almost exclusively with the Middle East, from which they were exported to the entire world.

Tanned animal skins were used to make parchment and leather of different types.

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ISLAMIC ART: TEXTILES, CARPETS, AND LEATHER

Islamic Art: Textiles, carpets, and leather

Item no. 25 of 37
"Musiker med cymbler" / "Musician with cymbals"

Lampas-woven textile, silk – Musician with cymbals

India; around 1600
201.5 × 97 cm

This textile, just over two meters tall, was presumably woven in one of the Great Mughal’s studios to be sewn together with similar pieces to decorate a princely tent.

A highly Indian niche encloses a musician who can be seen from both the front and the side. He wears a typical Mughal turban, two shawls, and a loincloth (dhoti). Very much alive yet statue-like, he must have made a fantastic impression alongside other figures.

There are two related tent panels (qanat), one with an elegant courtier in the Los Angeles County Museum of Art and another with a female harem guard in the Khalili Collection in London. Both, however, are in rather poor condition.

Making such large and complex figurative textiles without repeating the motif requires a true overview of the whole, and they were hardly surpassed anywhere in their day.

The tent panel most likely comes from the Amber Palace in Jaipur.

Inv. no. 19/2011