Textiles, Carpets, and Leather

Textiles, Carpets, and Leather

Woven textiles have always played an important role in Islamic society and in many cases were among the most prestigious and costly luxury goods.

Technically, textiles ranged from fairly simple tabby and tapestry weaves, through ikat, lampas, and samitum fabrics, to highly complex metal-brocaded velvets. In addition, there were embroidered, printed, and other types of fabrics.

Different materials were also used: plant fibers such as linen and cotton, wool from sheep and goats, silk, and finally various kinds of “metal thread.”

Pile carpets of wool, cotton, or silk – commonly called Oriental carpets – are justifiably associated almost exclusively with the Middle East, from which they were exported to the entire world.

Tanned animal skins were used to make parchment and leather of different types.

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ISLAMIC ART: TEXTILES, CARPETS, AND LEATHER

Islamic Art: Textiles, carpets, and leather

Item no. 7 of 37

Tabby-woven textile, silk, decorated with pattern wefts

Middle East; 11th-12th century
46 × 32 cm

The provenance of this textile is uncertain, but despite the Arabic inscription in Kufi – al-mulk l-illah (“royal power belongs to God”) – the type has most often been ascribed to Iran.

Motifs with eagles, falcons, lions, and other predators – hunting, confronted, or alone – are frequently associated with a princely iconography, or at least with social strata that modeled themselves on the ruling class. The becomingly modest inscription on this textile emphasizes a princely context.

A pattern weft is an extra weft that runs from selvage to selvage and forms the pattern.

Inv. no. 25/1992