Textiles, Carpets, and Leather

Textiles, Carpets, and Leather

Woven textiles have always played an important role in Islamic society and in many cases were among the most prestigious and costly luxury goods.

Technically, textiles ranged from fairly simple tabby and tapestry weaves, through ikat, lampas, and samitum fabrics, to highly complex metal-brocaded velvets. In addition, there were embroidered, printed, and other types of fabrics.

Different materials were also used: plant fibers such as linen and cotton, wool from sheep and goats, silk, and finally various kinds of “metal thread.”

Pile carpets of wool, cotton, or silk – commonly called Oriental carpets – are justifiably associated almost exclusively with the Middle East, from which they were exported to the entire world.

Tanned animal skins were used to make parchment and leather of different types.

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ISLAMIC ART: TEXTILES, CARPETS, AND LEATHER

Islamic Art: Textiles, carpets, and leather

Item no. 13 of 37

Lampas-woven textile, silk

Spain, Andalusia; late 14th-early 15th century
115 × 60 cm

With its colorful and sumptuously complex geometric and calligraphic patterns, this Andalusian silk can basically be reduced to a striped textile. The main pattern – with its interlacing ornament, star shapes, arcs, etc. – is so complicated that it is nearly impossible to describe it.

What looks like an intricately interwoven Kufi inscription cannot be read and should be considered pure ornamentation of a calligraphic nature, or pseudo-calligraphy. This phenomenon is found on many contemporary borders on rugs, but also within other groups of materials.

Very large Spanish textiles with related ornamentation have been preserved; they were used as curtains.

Inv. no. 25/2007