Textiles, Carpets, and Leather

Textiles, Carpets, and Leather

Woven textiles have always played an important role in Islamic society and in many cases were among the most prestigious and costly luxury goods.

Technically, textiles ranged from fairly simple tabby and tapestry weaves, through ikat, lampas, and samitum fabrics, to highly complex metal-brocaded velvets. In addition, there were embroidered, printed, and other types of fabrics.

Different materials were also used: plant fibers such as linen and cotton, wool from sheep and goats, silk, and finally various kinds of “metal thread.”

Pile carpets of wool, cotton, or silk – commonly called Oriental carpets – are justifiably associated almost exclusively with the Middle East, from which they were exported to the entire world.

Tanned animal skins were used to make parchment and leather of different types.

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ISLAMIC ART: TEXTILES, CARPETS, AND LEATHER

Islamic Art: Textiles, carpets, and leather

Item no. 8 of 37

Three fragments of a lampas-woven textile, silk and gilded animal substrate spun around a silk core

Spain, Almeria?; 1st half of 12th century
Largest fragment: 40 × 25 cm

This is only one of many related textiles that were made in Almoravid Spain, and one fragment bears the name of the ruler Ali bin Yusuf bin Tashufin (1106-1143). The stylized double eagle is covered with non-naturalistic ornamentation, including a pseudo-Latin inscription, and under its claws is the word baraka (blessing). The classical medallion pattern features griffins and harpies, and outside it are faint traces of a Kufi inscription.

These fragments and others come from the reliquary of St. Librada that was donated to the church in Siguenza by Alfonso VII of Castile and Leon in 1147. Like many other pieces, they show that Christian Spaniards appreciated decorative art made in the Muslim cultural sphere, which was superior in many respects.

Inv. no. 9/2001