Textiles, Carpets, and Leather

Woven textiles have always played an important role in Islamic society and in many cases were among the most prestigious and costly luxury goods.

Technically, textiles ranged from fairly simple tabby and tapestry weaves, through ikat, lampas, and samitum fabrics, to highly complex metal-brocaded velvets. In addition, there were embroidered, printed, and other types of fabrics.

Different materials were also used: plant fibers such as linen and cotton, wool from sheep and goats, silk, and finally various kinds of “metal thread.”

Pile carpets of wool, cotton, or silk – commonly called Oriental carpets – are justifiably associated almost exclusively with the Middle East, from which they were exported to the entire world.

Tanned animal skins were used to make parchment and leather of different types.

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Islamic Art: Textiles, carpets, and leather

Item no. 16 of 37

Lampas-woven textile with tulips, silk and silver lamella

Turkey; 2nd half of 16th century
130 × 56 cm

Although this textile was cut down a couple of centimeters on the sides, its large, stylized tulips make it a fine example of the highly original and magnificent patterns that were designed in the Ottoman court studios. The point of departure for the patterns was often a fairly true-to-life depiction of local Turkish plants, but frequently – as here – combined with more abstract elements such as scale patterns, cloud ornaments, and other features like the little growths that resemble stamens.

So much gold and silver thread was used for certain textiles that the sultans prohibited their production for periods, since they drained the reserves of precious metals.

Inv. no. 99/2005